Columbia River Gorge

After spending so much time in the southwest we were ready for a change. We headed to Oregon and settled in for a few days in the Columbia River Gorge. For the first time, we had beautiful sun and mild temperatures. It was wonderful.

We stayed at a KOA in Cascade Lakes, a nice campground peppered with pines and sequoias.

It was here that we saw the cute ladybug rig parked next to us. The back of the ladybug opened up to reveal a sizable storage area that included a microwave oven. They had a TV inside as well.

Two other guys pulled in on motorcycles pulling trailers that opened up into pop-up tents.

They let me look inside their set up. One guy had a king size bed and the other had a queen size bed, but the tent design gave them a large, full-height area for dressing or setting up a table. All their gear was stowed in the bottom of the trailer. Very compact and convenient.

While we camped in the gorge we visited the Bonneville Dam and Fish Hatchery, and drove historic Rte 30 through a section of waterfalls that is the largest collection of high falls in such a short area in the world.

The Bonneville Dam was very interesting. Located just below Cascade falls, a treacherous rapids on the river, it was the first of a series of dams built on the Columbia River in the 1930's and was part of Roosevelt's plan for recovery from the Great Depression. When he campaigned in Oregon, he promised to build a dam to 1) assist in shipping along the Columbia, and 2) put people to work. The promise of cheap electricity did little to win over skeptical farmers who doubted the dam was necessary. Local Indians decried the loss of the environment and the damage to the salmon migration. But the dam was built.

It was built with a lock to move boats up and down the river. Electricity was provided for everyone for the same cost regardless of how far they lived from the dam, which made it affordable. And by WWII it needed to be expanded to accommodate all the energy local factories needed to support the war effort.

Those worried about the salmon had valid concerns, but the dam was designed to help the fish migrate upstream in the spring. Fish Ladders were built along side the dam. The waterflow was controlled through the ladders to match what salmon would expect. By regulating waterflow, salmon would be drawn to the ladders and could navigate upstream.

This is a Fish Ladder! These 'steps' also had openings in the bottom that fish could swim through to get upstream. Some fish jump the ladder, but most swim.

Inside, viewers can see the fish swim along the ladder. The water is murky so you couldn't see the actual doors they swam through, but there were several windows so we could watch their progression.

Inside this door is a "Fish Counter". The fish are counted daily during migration season. The room is staffed for 16 hours a day. A video camera records the fish at night. A log is posted on the door of how many and what species of fish went through the ladders! (I'm glad I don't have to do that!!) 

We could look into the Fish Counter Room through a small window and see the fish there as well. 

The Fish Hatchery is one of the most beautiful I've ever been to. It was located next to the Bonneville Dam.

A sculpture near the entrance

Trout Ponds

Fish ponds are designed so that as fish become big enough to be released they swim from one pond to the next and finally into the river.

The hatchery raises trout and sturgeon to be released into the river. As an easterner, the Rainbow trout in the west are huge!

Western Rainbow Trout

But if I thought the trout were big, the sturgeon were amazing!

We could view the sturgeon in the pond from a platform above the water, or through windows in the viewing house.

Sturgeon are ancient fish. They have been here since pre-historic times and live to be 50-60 years old. They are 15-20 years old before they have their first spawn. They have no scales, but do have five rows of armored plates called scutes. They average 7-10' but can grow much larger.

Sturgeon Pond

After we left the Fish Hatchery, we drove scenic Rte 30.

Historic Rte 30 between Bonneville and Vista House is a lovely drive with towering waterfalls.

Well-named, this falls looks just like a flowing horse tail.

Horsetail Falls

 Wahkeena Falls. The bridge in the trees is only half way up. The falls start at the top of the cliff.

 Multnomah Falls is the biggest and the best known. It is just beautiful.

Latourell Falls. 

Long before the National Scenic Area Act of 1986, advocates recognized the significance of this area.
Upon completion of the historic Columbia River Highway in 1915, generous landowners donated property to create scenic retreats along the route. Most of the most spectacular features were donated by philanthropists or civic groups. We are the recipients of their gift, today.

We followed Historic Rte 30 to a place called Crown Point Vista House, situated high on a promontory along the river. This was originally a rest stop for cars that had made it up the steep inclines and needed that stop for the engine to cool off.

As many pictures as I took that day, I can't believe I didn't take one of the Vista House. This is an image I found online. Truthfully, the first thing we noticed up there was that THE WIND BLOWS! When Larry opened the car door, the wind ripped it out of his hand. From then on, our focus was just holding on to our cameras and each other. The wind was blowing 40 mph, and gusting up to 45 mph. We were told they closed the building when winds hit 50 mph. Winds of 100 mph have been recorded. No Thanks!!

 We braced ourselves against the wind and managed to take a few pictures of the view, which was a pretty good one.

The inside of the building was beautiful and a nice respite from the wind.

Inside the house I was asked to move off a section of the floor, because it was an elevator, and was being used to bring someone upstairs!

An Elevator Hides Below!

Elevator Rising

The Columbia River Gorge is a beautiful place to explore. This section between Cascade Locks and Crown Point kept us busy for a few delightful days. Regretfully, it was time to head east. After several weeks aiming for parts away from home, this felt like it was the beginning of the end of our trip. It wasn't. There was much more to come.

Scenery Isn't Everything, or What Man Will Do

"Wow! Lots of pictures of canyons. And they're pretty. But did you see anything else?"

Glad you asked! Yes, we did. When we weren't busy touring the big parks, we would take a day and check out the local, lesser known sites. Some were interesting. Some were uplifting. Some were fun.

We found places that championed the human spirit's imagination and perseverance.

Some showed the lengths pioneers in the wilderness would go to build a life.

Brigham Young sent missionaries to specific places to see if they could be developed into liveable communities. One visitor's center gave a good idea of what settlers had to do to grow food. Ridding the land they lived on of tough sagebrush was the first task. When I look at this, knowing they had axes and shovels, one word comes to mind. Rototiller!

In the community of Tropic, Utah, clearing the land was just one challenge. The climate was very mild compared to other parts of Utah, hence the name! However, while the weather was favorable for farming, water was at a premium. The Paria River frequently ran dry so they used horses to pull Water Lizards, 50 gallon barrels of water on skids, from a river miles away, several times a week for each family.

Water Lizard

Using hand tools, they dug a canal 13 miles from the Seveir River to the settlement. It took 2 years. What amazing perseverance! Today the community of Tropic is still going, thanks to those pioneers.

In Pipe Spring, Brigham Young sent several men out to try and tame the land at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs.  A spring had long supported nomadic Indians, wildlife and travelers through that arid and barren land. The Mormon settlers set up a ranching operation, and had some success. During the Indian Wars in the late 1860's they were raided. They built a fort over the spring, and a pipe connected the spring to a pond, giving the ranch it's name. Anson Perry Winsor was hired to operate the ranch and maintain the fort, which was nicknamed Winsor Castle.

Winsor Castle

Water was piped from the 'castle' to a small pond. 

Today the site includes Winsor Castle and two smaller buildings. A small corral with a couple of horses, a barn yard with a longhorn steer and some chickens are also on the property.

And bunnies. I saw lots of bunnies!

At one point it was recognized that there would never be enough water to support a village. Today, the land is part of the Kaibab Reservation and the site is jointly maintained by the National Park Service and the Kaibab Paiute Tribe as an example of a pioneer settlement in a remote part of Utah.

Survival is a strong human trait. However, some people are just as concerned about the survival of animals. My next story shows the lengths modern pioneers will go to rescue a life.

While we were in Kanab, we visited Best Friends Animal Sanctuary. They are a nationally known animal rescue organization with a no-kill policy. Best Friends started with a few people in the 80's who were dedicated to providing care for abandoned animals. Through benefactors, hard work, volunteers and donations they have created a 3,000 acre oasis in a canyon for unwanted animals.

They rescue hard luck, last resort cases, helping out animal rescue agencies around the country with hard to place animals. There are separate areas for dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, horses, pigs, and goats. All animals are domesticated, but have been abandoned or removed from abusive homes. Michael Vick's dogs ended up here. 2 are not rehabitable. 2 have since died. And several have been rehabbed and are hoping for adoption. Best Friends has a state of the art veterinary clinic, and a whole lot of willing volunteers. 9,000 so far this year! Volunteers are allowed to take dogs 'home' to a cabin on the property, or into town for outings as part of their socialization efforts.

Larry gives Google a hello hug and rubdown.

The DogPound is round in shape with several kennels inside that can each accommodate 2 dogs that get along well. They have immediate access to outside runs from their kennel. Only positive reinforcement training techniques are used. For instance, when a dog barks at you, rather than look at the dog or respond with a command to be quiet, visitors are told to turn their backs or look away.

Eye to Eye in the Cat House

Outside the Cat House, the porch is enclosed with climbing areas for the cats.

Because cats love to climb and hide, the outside ceiling area has been set up with kitty litter, food and water. There are labels so caretakers know where to look to clean or refill containers.

Every bit of Best Friends is funded by donations. They receive no government aid. They use thousands of volunteers and give free tours of their facility. It is a beautiful and remarkable place.

Our last 'tourist' stop in Kanab was just for kicks. Many westerns were filmed in the area in the 60's and 70's. John Wayne was a regular, and Clint Eastwood made a few there as well. Since we were there, we visited the Little Hollywood Museum, where abandoned movie sets have been relocated. The museum was little, and it was free, but it was interesting.

Old West set

 Larry visits the saloon, which was actually made out of fiberglass, not adobe.

Inside of a cabin

 The Sweetwater Tpke Toll booth was actually made out of Styrofoam!

 This set was originally used in a Kenny Loggins music video.

The Parry Lodge was the best hotel in town and where all the actors stayed when in town to make a movie. It is still in use today.

On a trip, the little spots are just as important as the main events. It is in the smaller places that the greatness of the average man shines through.