End of the Journey

The final leg of our Alaskan trip was up to Fairbanks. We spent two days in Fairbanks and then made a side trip to Talkeetna on our drive back to Anchorage. Talkeetna is one of our favorite little Alaskan towns. It is both a working outpost for adventurers, and a tourist stop.

While in Fairbanks, we took the Riverboat Discovery Cruise on the shallow Chena River.

The boat was a large, 4-story paddle wheel boat. Back in the gold rush days, the paddle wheel was the boat used to transport goods and people up to Fairbanks. (Or they could pack it in by horse!) When the gold rush era was over the family that ran the boats looked at tourism as a way to make a living. Today the cruise is one of the best run and most interesting tours we've done.

As the boat left the dock we were introduced to a bush pilot who demonstrated a routine water takeoff and landing.

What sets this apart, was the pilot was outfitted with a headset and mic and after he landed, he brought the plane alongside the boat and chatted with the tour director and answered questions about his plane, and his experience. This set the tone for the rest of the cruise.

As we went downstream, we passed a musher's kennel where race dogs were raised and trained. Dave Monson was the husband of the late Susan Butcher, an 4 time Iditerod winner. Susan came to Alaska alone, taught herself how to train sled dogs and ran in the Iditerod 18 times! Unfortunately, she passed away 10 years ago from Leukemia, but she is a legend here.

Susan's husband, again using a headset and mic, along with two young women who were dog trainers, gave a demonstration starting with young puppies learning to climb over logs, and ending with a team of mushers.One of the young women has also run in the Iditerod! Spunky girl!

Puppies are socialized to run, chase and conquer obstacles from an early age. 

Older dogs are retired from racing but are used to help train younger ones to pull sleds.The dogs in the kennels were all pretty quiet, until they saw these dogs being hooked up to their harnesses. Then they all went crazy! TAKE ME! PICK ME! MY TURN!! Sled dogs are bred for their intelligence, their energy, their instinct, their heart and their bravery. The most trusted ( and usually the most intelligent) dog is selected for the lead dog position and is in charge of the sled. There are no reins. The dogs respond only to verbal calls from the musher, so the connection between dog and human is very special. On one occasion Susan told her lead dog to turn right to cross an ice covered river. The dog refused and turned a different direction. This was not only unusual, it was aggravating. But shortly afterward, the ice on the river broke. The dog knew it was unsafe and no doubt saved her life.

Further along, we passed the Chena Indian Village, a simulated Athabascan village, where a young woman demonstrated the process of curing and smoking salmon.

On the way back up the river, we stopped at the village and spent about an hour touring the village and learning more about the Athabascan culture. Our young tour guides were witty and smart, native Athabascans who had bridged the gap from old ways to the present day.

The village was not an active village but staged. However it was authentic and we enjoyed exploring it.

She modeled their traditional winter parka. I wish I could remember how many pelts and which type of furs were used to make it, but it was a lot, and it wasn't made in a week!

A Cache House where skins were stored

This cabin would have been along a trapper's route. He would spend the night there when he came by to check his traps.

Larry is standing outside a normal cabin. I was surprised at how well my camera picked up the interior.

Not exactly a Serta Sleeper, but comfy and warm enough for them!

All of the presentations were articulate, full of humor, (and not corny puns), and were some of the best I have ever heard. We really enjoyed them.

I have experienced so many personal connections, that I shouldn't have been surprised at one more. As I walked up front to take a picture from the riverboat, a woman behind me said my name. I turned and looked, and was stunned to see Gina, a woman from a church I had attended 10 years ago in Brandon, Florida!

Larry and I had been back to that church just 2 months ago and she had seen me there, so she recognized me. It has been just that kind of trip. She had been on the Princess Cruise ship that was often docked with ours in different ports, but what a coincidence that we would be on the same deck of a 4 story paddle boat in Fairbanks at the same time.

On our last day in Fairbanks, I finally had lunch with my on-line buddy, Susan Stevenson. We had a great time catching up, talking about life in Alaska, and sharing some time together.

After lunch we went out to a favorite place of hers, Creamers Field. This was once a working dairy and when the dairy closed, the farm became a public area and bird sanctuary. There are several trails to walk, and we took the Boreal forest trail, which led through a woodland. Much of the trail was over a boardwalk through bogs and over permafrost.

On our final day in Alaska, we headed south for Anchorage and stopped for lunch at Talkeetna. For those of you who remember the TV show, Northern Exposure, which was popular in the 1990's, the quirky town was modeled after Talkeetna. It is a small town with one main street and a few side streets that are only a block or two long. Talkeetna is an outpost for those wishing to hike, camp, mountain climb, or go river rafting in the Denali, Mt. McKinley area. I love the shops and the folk art, and the general atmosphere.

Dune Buggies, River Rapids, Mountain Climbing....you name it. This is the place to go for real outdoors adventure.

K2 Aviation and the Moose's Tooth 

The perfect mix; adventure outpost with gifts, local crafts, and kids jammies all in one place.

We ate lunch at Mountain High Pizza Pie. The owner is from Zelionople, a small town north of Pittsburgh. The last time we were here, he saw Larry in a Steeler's Sweatshirt and raced outside to say hi and introduce himself. At the time were living about 7 miles from his home. When we were there this time they were so busy the line was out the door. Larry managed to say hi to him, but he was too busy cooking for us to get a picture with him.

 Dogs Rule! Whether touring on their own or with a human buddy, dogs were welcome in this town. I saw one dog race down a side street, across main street and duck into a local store when the door opened. Five minutes later, his owner came out holding him as they headed home. No one batted an eye.

As this trip nears an end, I am in awe of how wonderful it has been. There were so many things I wanted to see or experience and I've seen or done them all. This trip to Alaska was one I've wanted to do for years, and it has been much more than I could have anticipated. From sunny skies, to whales and bears, Mt. McKinley in full show, meeting new friends, seeing old ones, and finding connections to so many people we just chatted with in passing, I have been blessed beyond my dreams.

11:00 PM Sunset in Fairbanks. The sky never got truly dark. The horizon became light at 3:00 AM, but the sun didn't rise until 5: 00 AM

I came. I saw. I go home with memories that will stay with me far beyond these past two weeks.

The Roadtrip Begins: Denali and the Interior

Cruise Journal Continues:

After a week on a ship, it was time to move from water to land and get to see Alaska's Interior.
The ship docked in Seward and we boarded a bus to Anchorage, where we would pick up a rental car at the airport. The "Planned Tour" was over. We were ready to head out on our own and explore the mainland!

On the way to the airport, our driver took the back road into the airport where moose are often seen. Sure enough, there was a female grazing in a field right off the road in the back of the airport. I have to hand it to the driver. Some of the people on our ship were flying home rather than continuing on. That was a special moment for them. I have been to Anchorage before, and one time as I drove that same road, I came by a moose grazing along the shoulder. He was gorgeous. It has always been one of my favorite memories. I wasn't able to get a photo of this moose from my vantage point in the bus which was too bad, because it was the best sighting we had. Later on I saw a moose and newborn calf, which was a real treat, but they were very well hidden in the brush.

An interesting piece of Trivia.... I think Anchorage is the only city in the U.S. that has a registered population of Moose, Grizzly Bear, and Black Bear in the city limits. Fun place to live....(or not?)! I guess it depends on how much you enjoy checking your backyard for wildlife before putting the trash out or getting the mail!

Anyway.... on to the trip.

A Day of Highs and Lows

We spent the night in this bed and breakfast in the Wasilla/Palmer area. The mountains were drizzled in white frosting against another "forget-me-not blue" sky.

The next morning we headed north towards Denali National Park, home to Mt. McKinley, the highest peak in North America. It is often hard to see, because it usually has it's head in the clouds. Along with seeing whales, seeing Mt. McKinley, or Denali as the locals call it, was on my MUST SEE list. I've been to Anchorage twice and on a clear day it can be seen from there. I've never had a clear day in Anchorage.

As we headed north on Highway 3 the sky was incredibly blue and clear. We rounded a curve at Trapper Creek and there she was...straight ahead, clear as a bell.

1st View of Mt. McKinley from the highway

The south face of Denali's white, snow-covered peaks rose above the trees that lined the road. It glowed in the sunshine. I was in awe. It was just a beautiful sight, and it was easily 50 miles away.

Mt.McKinley seen from the South

We saw it several times as we drove north and it was more majestic each time. There are two peaks to Denali but from the south you see the south peak. The north peak is mostly behind it.

Mt. McKinley seen from the East

Driving north, our eyes were peeled to the sky, constantly searching for the next view. As we traveled we were able to see the different faces of it. When it was to our west we could easily see the two peaks. The south summit was conquered first and is the one most climbers attempt.  Once we were inside the park we had a very different view. From this vantage point we had a better concept of the challenges facing mountain climbers.

Mt. McKinley seen from the North...view inside Denali National Park

The park view looks quite different from the southern view, but it is unmistakable from any vantage point because it is so much bigger than any other mountain and always covered in snow. The skies were hazy here and there were times when the effects of distance caused it to blend in much more with the other mountains.

The mountain has two names and both are registered. It was originally named by a gold prospector in 1896 for then presidential nominee, William McKinley, because McKinley supported the gold standard. The Athabascan natives called the mountain, Denali, meaning "the Big One". Most maps today call it Denali, but the U.S Geographic Registry has it listed as Mt. McKinley. There are attempts to change it officially to Denali, but those attempts haven't been successful, yet.  Clink this link to Read more about Mt. McKinley/Denali.

We stopped for lunch at a Subway outside the park and gassed up before heading in. And suddenly our day took a nose dive into the unexpected, with a phone call from home, 4,000 miles away. Our plans were thrown into a tailspin with the devastating news that Larry's mother had suffered a stroke. With sporadic phone service, and hours from any airport, we were essentially two to three days away if we left then and 36 hours away if everything was timed perfectly. It's a terrible feeling when you want to do something and you know there is nothing you can do. We could sit in the waiting room and wait, or we could wait for word sitting in the car.

Those of you who follow my blog know that I write them one day and then edit several days later. Almost all of my blog posts are posted in retrospect, even though they are written currently. So at this point I can tell you we stayed in Alaska and had multiple daily updates. Initially she stabilized and was moved to a nursing home where she made remarkable progress. We were able to get home to see her before she suffered another stroke, but we kept in touch via lots of phone calls and texts. 

For the time being, we decided to stay put, and continue on with our plans to drive through Denali and wait for more word on how she was doing. So with our minds in two places, thousands of miles apart, we ventured into the park.

Denali Nat'l Park is beautiful, but bleak, or stark in places. Due to the cold winters the tree line is much lower than in the Colorado Rockies. The tundra rises up as far as it can go, and then leaves the granite peaks to reach into the sky unclothed. It was still early summer/late spring, before the ground cover had begun to bud.

In the lower valleys the birches were in new leaf and the light green was a contrast in relief with the dark green of the spruce.

In the higher elevations the snow still lined the mountain valleys, and ice shelves were still prominent along mountain streams.

Our visit was timed well, because during our two day visit we were still able to drive into the park to Mile Post 30. On May 20 the park road was cut off to traffic at Mile 15. From there, people had to board buses if they wanted to go any further.

As we drove through the park we found ourselves going slowly, searching for wildlife. Binoculars and cameras were at our fingertips as we scanned hillsides, tree tops, ravines for any sign of moose, caribou, bear, eagles, or Dall Sheep. And we were rewarded.

Ptarmigan, Alaska's State Bird, in the brush by the side of the road.

 Dall Sheep on rocky hillsides and outcroppings.

We had a good view of this Caribou in a dry river bed

Caribou were in abundance, if distant. At first it took a sharp eye to pick out the antlers rising above the scrub, or the sand colored hides along rocky river banks, and hillsides. A nice zoom lens was a big help to this amateur photographer!

These caribou had been lying in the brush until one stood up giving us a good view.

A bull Caribou grazing by the side of the road.

Cars or buses stopped along the roadside gave us a heads up that something was there and we would stop and look.

As we drove out of the park several cars were stopped at Savage River so we stopped too. Hard as we tried, we couldn't see anything of interest, so I went up and asked a bus driver if he could see anything. "Sure can," he replied. "Two bear right down there."

I pointed the binoculars in that direction and finally saw two small, round, off-white rumps in the bush along the river. Bear! I pointed them out to Larry and he finally found them too, just as the yearling put his front feet on his mother and rose up for a look around. By the third day in the park we were able to locate and point them out to others, but the eye-mind connection had to really adjust what we were looking for before they were visible to us.

When we went back the next day we saw the same pair crossing the river on the ice shelf.

We pulled away from Savage River and rounded a corner, when all of a sudden, a Mama Bear and two cubs walked casually out of the line of spruce trees right by our car! Larry slammed on the brakes, and grabbed a camera. Snapping a picture, he got her in his side view mirror.

Then he handed me the camera as I rolled down my window.

The three bears stopped by the back of our car and grazed while we snapped away. Larry, in his excitement, yelled at me to "get out and take a picture!" Using some of my more colorful words, I told him I wasn't GETTING OUT of the car!!! But I did get some great shots.

Our first day in Denali ended with us feeling the effects of emotional exhaustion. It had been a day of very big highs, and extremely low lows. But there was one more special moment waiting.

Susan Stevenson and I meet by chance at a rest area outside Denali

For years, I have followed a blog written by fellow blogger, Susan Stevenson, who lives in Fairbanks. We had made plans to meet face-to-face for the first time on Friday in Fairbanks. Now I wasn't sure that would happen. Susan has very long, very red hair, and I knew she had been in the park that day. As we were leaving I saw a woman with long red hair walking to a car in a rest area! It was Susan! Excitedly, I pointed her out to Larry, and we immediately turned around and drove back. It was my final MUST SEE of this trip. All I can say is that God knew my bucket list and covered it on one of the most difficult days we have known.

We headed back to our B & B that was located on a small lake. We were ready to turn in for the night. From our room I watched the setting sun reflected on the hills and welcomed the peace.

The day was done, but this was Alaska in May. There wasn't a lot of night.

Midnight in Alaska in May: I could read in my room using just the light coming in the window!

At midnight the mountains were reflected in the water. As I drifted off to sleep I reflected back on the day. Whatever tomorrow was to bring, I had been blessed.

To God be the Glory. He has graced me far beyond what I deserve.