Wednesday, June 24, 2015

End of the Journey

The final leg of our Alaskan trip was up to Fairbanks. We spent two days in Fairbanks and then made a side trip to Talkeetna on our drive back to Anchorage. Talkeetna is one of our favorite little Alaskan towns. It is both a working outpost for adventurers, and a tourist stop.

While in Fairbanks, we took the Riverboat Discovery Cruise on the shallow Chena River.

The boat was a large, 4-story paddle wheel boat. Back in the gold rush days, the paddle wheel was the boat used to transport goods and people up to Fairbanks. (Or they could pack it in by horse!) When the gold rush era was over the family that ran the boats looked at tourism as a way to make a living. Today the cruise is one of the best run and most interesting tours we've done.


As the boat left the dock we were introduced to a bush pilot who demonstrated a routine water takeoff and landing.


What sets this apart, was the pilot was outfitted with a headset and mic and after he landed, he brought the plane alongside the boat and chatted with the tour director and answered questions about his plane, and his experience. This set the tone for the rest of the cruise.



As we went downstream, we passed a musher's kennel where race dogs were raised and trained. Dave Monson was the husband of the late Susan Butcher, an 4 time Iditerod winner. Susan came to Alaska alone, taught herself how to train sled dogs and ran in the Iditerod 18 times! Unfortunately, she passed away 10 years ago from Leukemia, but she is a legend here.

Susan's husband, again using a headset and mic, along with two young women who were dog trainers, gave a demonstration starting with young puppies learning to climb over logs, and ending with a team of mushers.One of the young women has also run in the Iditerod! Spunky girl!

Puppies are socialized to run, chase and conquer obstacles from an early age. 

Older dogs are retired from racing but are used to help train younger ones to pull sleds.The dogs in the kennels were all pretty quiet, until they saw these dogs being hooked up to their harnesses. Then they all went crazy! TAKE ME! PICK ME! MY TURN!! Sled dogs are bred for their intelligence, their energy, their instinct, their heart and their bravery. The most trusted ( and usually the most intelligent) dog is selected for the lead dog position and is in charge of the sled. There are no reins. The dogs respond only to verbal calls from the musher, so the connection between dog and human is very special. On one occasion Susan told her lead dog to turn right to cross an ice covered river. The dog refused and turned a different direction. This was not only unusual, it was aggravating. But shortly afterward, the ice on the river broke. The dog knew it was unsafe and no doubt saved her life.

Further along, we passed the Chena Indian Village, a simulated Athabascan village, where a young woman demonstrated the process of curing and smoking salmon.


On the way back up the river, we stopped at the village and spent about an hour touring the village and learning more about the Athabascan culture. Our young tour guides were witty and smart, native Athabascans who had bridged the gap from old ways to the present day.


The village was not an active village but staged. However it was authentic and we enjoyed exploring it.

She modeled their traditional winter parka. I wish I could remember how many pelts and which type of furs were used to make it, but it was a lot, and it wasn't made in a week!

A Cache House where skins were stored


This cabin would have been along a trapper's route. He would spend the night there when he came by to check his traps.

Larry is standing outside a normal cabin. I was surprised at how well my camera picked up the interior.


Not exactly a Serta Sleeper, but comfy and warm enough for them!
All of the presentations were articulate, full of humor, (and not corny puns), and were some of the best I have ever heard. We really enjoyed them.

I have experienced so many personal connections, that I shouldn't have been surprised at one more. As I walked up front to take a picture from the riverboat, a woman behind me said my name. I turned and looked, and was stunned to see Gina, a woman from a church I had attended 10 years ago in Brandon, Florida!


Larry and I had been back to that church just 2 months ago and she had seen me there, so she recognized me. It has been just that kind of trip. She had been on the Princess Cruise ship that was often docked with ours in different ports, but what a coincidence that we would be on the same deck of a 4 story paddle boat in Fairbanks at the same time.

On our last day in Fairbanks, I finally had lunch with my on-line buddy, Susan Stevenson. We had a great time catching up, talking about life in Alaska, and sharing some time together.

After lunch we went out to a favorite place of hers, Creamers Field. This was once a working dairy and when the dairy closed, the farm became a public area and bird sanctuary. There are several trails to walk, and we took the Boreal forest trail, which led through a woodland. Much of the trail was over a boardwalk through bogs and over permafrost.



On our final day in Alaska, we headed south for Anchorage and stopped for lunch at Talkeetna. For those of you who remember the TV show, Northern Exposure, which was popular in the 1990's, the quirky town was modeled after Talkeetna. It is a small town with one main street and a few side streets that are only a block or two long. Talkeetna is an outpost for those wishing to hike, camp, mountain climb, or go river rafting in the Denali, Mt. McKinley area. I love the shops and the folk art, and the general atmosphere.



Dune Buggies, River Rapids, Mountain Climbing....you name it. This is the place to go for real outdoors adventure.

K2 Aviation and the Moose's Tooth 
The perfect mix; adventure outpost with gifts, local crafts, and kids jammies all in one place.




We ate lunch at Mountain High Pizza Pie. The owner is from Zelionople, a small town north of Pittsburgh. The last time we were here, he saw Larry in a Steeler's Sweatshirt and raced outside to say hi and introduce himself. At the time were living about 7 miles from his home. When we were there this time they were so busy the line was out the door. Larry managed to say hi to him, but he was too busy cooking for us to get a picture with him.

 Dogs Rule! Whether touring on their own or with a human buddy, dogs were welcome in this town. I saw one dog race down a side street, across main street and duck into a local store when the door opened. Five minutes later, his owner came out holding him as they headed home. No one batted an eye.

As this trip nears an end, I am in awe of how wonderful it has been. There were so many things I wanted to see or experience and I've seen or done them all. This trip to Alaska was one I've wanted to do for years, and it has been much more than I could have anticipated. From sunny skies, to whales and bears, Mt. McKinley in full show, meeting new friends, seeing old ones, and finding connections to so many people we just chatted with in passing, I have been blessed beyond my dreams.
11:00 PM Sunset in Fairbanks. The sky never got truly dark. The horizon became light at 3:00 AM, but the sun didn't rise until 5: 00 AM

I came. I saw. I go home with memories that will stay with me far beyond these past two weeks.

2 comments:

  1. It was so nice to meet you, and I'm glad you enjoyed your time in Fairbanks. I love the Riverboat Discovery, and look forward to taking my son and future DIL on it when they visit in August.

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    1. The Riverboat is really awesome. I hope your family has a wonderful time when they visit and the smoke has cleared!

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